Tuesday, September 18, 2007

The Vatican

Since Ryan is a Rock Star, he was able to arrange for us to go in the back way and get into the Vatican in a painfree manner. It was an amazing thing to be given a private tour of the Popes gardens. Tourists are not allowed in the private gardens and it was amazing to be inside this quiet, peaceful area in the middle of the hustle and bustle of Rome.

The gardens are amazing with beautiful sculptures, fountains and every kind of flora and fauna known to man. They even have parrots in the gardens. It was gorgeous. We saw the helicopter pad and also the place that all the visiting presidents and heads of state stay.

Of course, St. Peters Basillica was mind boggling and beautiful. Ryan had much of the history for us and got us in the back door so we walked out into the middle of a roped off area, much to the surprise of everyone standing behind the ropes!

There are some special artifacts, like part of the holy cross (which came from Ryans monestary) and official letters and the like, that are hidden up in the basilica. No one has seen them in many many years and they are behind multiple locks, keys and safes. Ryan had to accompany a very very very VIP up to see them. Even the Vatican Historian had never seen them so he accompanied Ryan and the VIP up through a labyrinth of locks, tiny stairs and dank hallways to see the relics of ancient church history. It sounded very daggers and intrigue to hear Ryan describe it.

Perhaps the most interesting and strange part of the entire Vatican visit was the Vatican PX, for lack of a better term. They have ALL the designer clothes in there for cheap, cheap, cheap. Kelly and I thought we had died and gone to heaven (ha ha). She immediately bought a Burberry poncho for $1000 off and I tried on a Dolce and Gabbana dress (which fit but looked hideous!). We are going back today to all go shopping crazy. Chris is very happy that I am bringing my own credit card with me.

We spent that night at the Spanish steps, window shopping and eating. It was a magical evening, except for all the touristas and their trash and cigs!

Ryan is a Rock Star!

Wow! Chris and I will definitely take the prize for most weight gained in a week. We have lost all of our angular facial features and we both have little dough boy faces and bodies now.

It does not help that all of our food has been free except 2 meals. We are staying at the monestary hotel for the Church of the Holy Cross, or Sante Croce as it is called here. It is one of the official 7 churches in Rome. We eat all of our meals with the monks, generally in silencio, while a monk reads off latin text for our enjoyment. Something about the combination of FREE and latin texts causes us to all eat way more than we need to. Thus, the dough people. We are praying to be upgraded to first class because we fear Coach will not hold our expanded bottoms.

The first day, Thursday, we flew in at 8 a.m. and waited at the airport with trusting hearts that someone would pick us up. Two hours later, that trust was fraying. No one was answering their phones and there was no greeting party with open arms. Chris and I were bickering. We were hungry. We could not understand anything and EVERYONE was smoking. It was not much of a start to our so-called second honeymoon.

Winston and Ryan finally came to get us. Winston had a car arranged from the Vatican to come get us but for 10:30 and not 8 when we landed. It is nice to know that we were not completely forgotten.

We immediately got settled into our monk-like rooms, complete with concrete posts that double as beds, and took a short nap before dinner. Then, it was time to shower and get ready for Ryans ordination. What an affair that was!!

It seemed like all of Rome was out to celebrate Ryans big day. The Vatican sent the Secretary of the Vatican (so like Donald Rummie was for our president) over to do Ryans service and he brought his 8 secret service guys. The secret service guys scowled. A lot. The Vatican also sent over an entire contingent of red dressed priests. Ryan tells us that (1) the Cardinal has never done another ordination and (2) that normally there is only one Priest at each ordination. He expresses bafflement at why they are treating him so well and with such honor but it is very clear to his family that Ryan is destined for high places for the Church. After all, within 2 days of the ceremony, Ryans photos are available in the Vatican Gift Shop as a photo essay. It is not every monk that gets that!

The service was long with much standing and praying and Ryan spent half of it, fully flat out on his face on the floor. My snake skin, open toed, 3 inch heels had some trouble supporting me in comfort but they helped to set off the austere black suit. Ryan said he did not recognize me in such a covered-up outfit. I was not sure if that was a complement or not.

The big surprise came when the Renoud children were pulled from the crowd to be part of the ceremony. Chris delivered the Chalice up to the Cardinal on the steps and I carried the Holy Water. We made a little processional all the way from the back of the church to the front, walking slowly and with dignity, my little red toes winking all the way. Then, we had to deliver the holy artifacts to the Cardinal, who grasped our hands meaningfully. Apparently, we were supposed to kiss his hand but not being Catholic, we had no idea that we were supposed to be kissing random hands on stage. We made it back to our seats with nary a slip, which was quite a feat in my 3 inch heels on the giant cobblestones.

After the mass was over, there were hours and hours of celebrations where we met everyone who was anyone in Rome. The Princess of Italy was there. The Ferrarri family was there. There head of the Oil company for Italy was there. Everyone wanted to be there to celebrate with Ryan. Or, the cynical nature in me does wonder if everyone was there to curry favor with the next muckity muck for the Church. Either way, I told Ryan we would need to rename the Church Everyone Loves Ryan because he is very very beloved here. I can see why he loves it.

More on our travels to the Vatican, seeing the Holy Cross and almost dying on the way to Positano later ...